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Worm Farming / Product Questions

Yes worms do eat dog poo and cat poo and kitty litter as long as it is a paper or timber based product.

Recent research by us and a Vet in the USA has shown that modern animal worm medications do not harm compost worms. Therefore recently wormed animal poo is safe to use in your worm farm as a worm food.

Add plenty of high carbon material with dog poo, material such as shredded cardboard, dry leaves, aged compost, peat moss or coco coir. Ironically these high carbon materials are called “browns”, yet dog poo is considered a “green” food because it is high in nitrogen😊.

The ideal worm farm for feeding dog and cat poo to is our own Little Rotter. They are simple, safe and easy to use. Check them out in our “Store” page.

We recommend that you initially buy 1000 compost worms for each member of your household. Therefore, if you have 4 members in your household, your worm farm would work best if you ordered 4000 compost worms. You can buy 1000 mature worms in our Bag O Worms and make up the remainder with our Compost Worm Bombs which have smaller worms and eggs and are therefore much cheaper. Your worm farm will still work with less worms, but it will be much slower in converting waste.

Compost worms will eat most things that have been living, but are now dead and rotting. They actually prefer to eat the micro-organisms that are causing the organic matter to rot. Worms have no teeth, so rely on other organisms to break down their food first. Kitchen scraps are a good food source for worms. Other household wastes that are good for worms include paper, cardboard, lawn clippings, animal poo, leaves etc. If you don’t like maggots, don’t feed your worms meat. Remember that worms do NOT have teeth, so chop, shred or mush the worm food first. Also remember that worms like a varied diet, just like all animals. So mix your food up and try to vary it as much as possible. Everything in moderation.

It has been said that Compost worms will eat up to half their body weight per day. In our experience, this figure varies tremendously. We have fed our compost worms from as little as 1/100th of their body weight per day (bran) to as much as 10 times their body weight per day (mill mud/filter press). It all depends on the type of food, what particle size it is, what its nutrient content is etc etc. If you mainly feed your worms kitchen scraps and you chop or mush them up, you can expect 1000 worms to eat 1/2 a cupful (125 ml) per day.

No, compost worms have a natural mechanism that stops them from breeding when they get to a maximum food/volume density. This means that the worms will self-regulate their population depending on the amount of food you give them and the space in which they are kept.

We have 4 varieties of worms. Some will survive well in most gardens, others will need a good cover of mulch and plenty of water to allow the worms to survive. Perhaps a better way to go is to use our Little Rotter Worm Farm which provides the perfect environment with food and moisture for the worms. You can look up this Little Rotter Worm Farm on Our Products page.

No, at present we do not supply the worm blankets. In our experience, worm blankets are not a necessity for a worm farm. The blankets can help keep moisture in and keep the food dark so that worms can eat 24 hours a day. Damp newspaper, cardboard or carpet will do the same job. The Tumbleweed worm blankets are available from most Bunnings stores.

The base on the Little Rotter is very important from a rodent perspective. If the in ground based worm farm does not have a base, then it is very prone to rodents (rats and mice) digging their way in from underneath and not only eating the food scraps, but eating the worms as well. This was a major problem when we were doing testing on the Little Rotter prototypes.

The final design that we came up with was a bin with a base, but with 9 small holes drilled in the base which allows the worms easy access, but restricts the rodents from getting in.
It is not a good idea to dig the Little Rotter (and for that matter any other style of worm farm) into the ground. The worms have a natural tendency to level any organic matter/food to the surrounding soil level. So, if you dig a Little Rotter in the ground, the worms will FILL it to the surrounding soil level. If you place the Little Rotter on top of the ground, then the worms will continuously EMPTY it for you.

To hide the Little Rotter in your garden it is possible to place light fluffy mulch up around it. Something like cane fibre mulch available from Bunnings or any other good quality mulch. We actually encourage the use of mulch around the garden to help protect the worms from the elements.

Compost worms in the garden do appear to assist in attracting soil worms. Soil worms are generally deeper dwelling worms that create “structured” soil. Structured soil helps to hold plant roots down and stopping the trees from toppling over, they hold nutrients and water really well and have many small worm tunnels that assist in letting air down into the soils to help the soils to breath and hence be healthier.

Compost worms add nutrients to the soil with their worm cast. They are generally surface-dwelling worms which make a fine granular worm cast that is nutrient rich, but lacks “structure”.

Ants hate water. Simply spray your Worm Farm lightly with the hose or watering can and the ants will retreat. You will probably need to repeat this, keeping the bedding moist but not soaked and the ants should stay away.

Our Little Rotter’s in a garden bed are more forgiving with water and you can just pour a bucket of water straight onto the ants. Again, you will probably need to repeat this several times until the ants get the message and move out.

During rain events or when there is a large variation in air pressure, the worms may start to climb the sides of a worm farm searching for higher ground. They can sense the change in air pressure and will look for higher ground to escape the upcoming rain event. Some worm varieties are more sensitive to air pressure fluctuations than others. They will even climb the walls of a worm farm kept indoors, as it’s the change in air pressure that they can sense. Leave them alone and they will settle on their own after the rain event is over.

If the worms don’t settle back down for a week or more after a rain event, then other factors could be at play such as inadequate ventilation or over heating in your worm farm.

Ordering / Shipping Questions

Below are standard Australia Post delivery timeframes, which apply after your order has been processed and despatched ex-Gin Gin, QLD:
For SE QLD – allow 2 days
For far west and north QLD – allow 3-4 days
For Sydney and near NSW – allow 3-4 days
For far NSW – allow 4 days
For Melbourne and near VIC – allow 4 days
For far VIC – allow 5 days
For Adelaide – allow 5 days
For rural SA – allow 5-6 days
All other states – allow 6-7 days

**More specific timeframes for your postcode destination may be advised, by email, once your order has been despatched from Gin Gin, QLD

ATL is not recommended for live product, especially in summer – You must ensure you have a safe area which is protected from direct sunlight at all times, and is safely accessible for delivery by your postal contractor. If your designated area is not fully shaded, nor safely accessible, please don’t request ATL. All parcels require a signature on delivery, unless otherwise requested by the customer.

Unless you specifically request ATL, all parcels require a signature on delivery – You must ensure you have a safe area which is protected from direct sunlight at all times, and is safely accessible by your postal contractor. If your designated area is not fully shaded, nor safely accessible, please don’t request ATL.

If you have a coupon code to redeem, you must apply it to the required coupon code field on the Cart or Checkout page. There are plenty of prompts to help remind you! Sorry, NO free offers or vouchers can be added once your order has already been shipped.

A complete guide to composting with worms - Everything you need to know to get started

This Complete Guide to worm farming is different to everything else you can find on the web. It is an original guide written by George who has over 25 years of worm farming experience. It debunks many of the myths surrounding using worms to recycle your kitchen, garden and pet wastes.

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